SA Rocks

 Tim and Bruce are cyclying from Cairo to Cape Town in the Tour ‘d Afrique to raise funds to build 2 classrooms for a rural school in the Eastern Cape. So far they have raised R105,000.00 and need a further R75,000. You can view their website here or join their Facebook group here. Here is their account of their travels going into Kenya.

21 February, Day 38

100km Arba Minch to Proper Bush Camp

Just up the dry river bed from our tents linger some rather gaunt-looking cattle. Just down the river bed are some 40 goats in their makeshift kraal, built from impressive and very thorny acacia branches. We’re in proper Africa now, dirt roads, thorny bush and hungry-looking livestock and people. Absent from today’s ride were the angry stone-throwing kids, replaced thankfully by the more tribal herders, machetes and sickles in hand as they pushed on with their day’s arduous labour. As we ticked of the kilometres quickly today, so the sun would match us with increasing intensity, just enough to let us know that the next 6 days will be hot and testing riding conditions. Bring it….

22 February, Day 39

98km Proper Bush Camp to Yalabella Motel

Highlight: Just finishing

Today was proper tough. I haven’t been feeling well for more than five days now and today I felt worst of all. Previously my symptoms were a phlegmy cough, snotty nose and tight wheezy chest that burned whenever there was intense climbing. Nothing really to get too concerned about, only it just wasn’t going away. Well today was different, my chest felt better, but now I had diarrhea, intense stomach cramps, hot flushes, I had the shakes and no appetite – I just felt awful… Stubborn as can be, although also knowing my only limitations, I decided to cycle the day knowing if need be, I could jump in one of the trucks… 

Hang on… another toilet break…

Tim was great, he cycled slowly with me for the first few hours over the fast rolling hills with the whole day on dirt roads, even stopping with me for a pit stop en route. We knew today was a very long 45km climb (1000m elevation gain) so when the climb started I stopped, waved Tim by, plugged in my music and grinded out the very, very long climb. It was a difficult road surface as it wasn’t possible to get into a rhythm due to the stones, soft sand and ruts. The climb seemed to take forever, especially the very steep last section. I was in the granniest of granny gears and I had been slipping up the steep section when suddenly I was plunging down towards the town of Yalabela as I’d summated the hill and started descending. 

Today was simply a head down and graft day (“vas byt” as they say in Afrikaans), only a few people made the end so much so that Tim was the 2nd place rider and I was 3rd in the race.  People were struggling so much that despite me going slowly, helping a friend change her tyres after both went flat at the same time, no lunch as I had no appetite and 3 toilet breaks, I still managed to come 3rd. People here are dropping like flies, almost everyone is either sick or recovering from being sick. In two days time we reach Kenya and the hope of nothing other than better sanitary conditions.

23 February, Day 40

128km Yalabella Motel to Groto Camp

Highlight: Sprice – a mix of tea and coffee in a single cup… a little weird, but quite tasty

I had high hopes of starting my blog with a report back on my first solid number 2 in days, but alas I was a little over optimistic due to my toilet-stop free ride today… oh well, perhaps tomorrow. I apologise if that’s a little vulgar, but that’s what life’s like on tour. After a few months you’ve gotten to know everyone quite well, so there are no more light conversational chats about family, jobs and home life, instead there are detailed descriptions of number 2’s, and whether or not you trust your colon enough to fart.

Tomorrow we leave Ethiopia and enter Kenya… WHOOOOOOO HOOOOOO! 

I have so many mixed emotions about Ethiopia. Without a doubt my worst experiences of the Tour have been here – from the stone-throwing kids, the bouts of illness, the endless steep hills, the shear number of people, etc. However, in the very same breath, my best experiences of the Tour have also happened in Ethiopia, from running into John and meeting Fatima and Mista, to the lady near Addis Ababa performing the traditional coffee ceremony, to a most memorable 27th birthday in Addis Ababa, to the many, many macchiatos, the layered fruit juices (something I want to make after returning as a civilian), to the accomplishment felt after climbing the Blue Nile Gorge and high fiving at the end to the seemingly endless struggle that was the Yalabella hill whilst quite ill.  

The scenery has been pretty, but not amazing Africa, as so much of the land has been cultivated and all wild life killed off for farming and grazing. The people are a nightmare, invading your personal space and endlessly staring at these crazy ‘Forangi’s’ (Ahmeric for foreigner) on shiny bikes, but the individual people we’ve met in coffee shops, bars, restaurants etc have all been unbelievably friendly and hospitable. The people stare, in fact I think we’re the entertainment for the night as the entire village comes down to watch the circus act as these weird looking white gypsies build their homes in minutes from a small bag, but that‘s all, they just stare.  

Rarely thieving (my leather man being an exception) or harassing, etc. It’s frighteningly disappointing to see a place were the people have only ever been given the proverbially fish and have become completely reliant on the handout, rather than being taught how to fish and able to sustain themselves. As a result every Ethiopian that sees us puts out their hands waiting for a handout, it’s just so sad. Our resolve that the only sustainable way to improve ones quality of life is through education has been strengthened by our visit here. Ethiopia has been… well Ethiopia. Challenging, arduous, but rewarding in a way that took 3 weeks to recognise. Ethiopia has left an indelible mark on me, one I’ll never forget. I feel very blessed to have been here.  But I’m certainly ready to leave. 

24 February, Day 41

82km to the border town of Moyale and Kenya

Highlight: Bidding Ethiopia farewell

Warm greetings from Kenya! It’s funny how the slowest and sickest of all the cyclists just seemed to find that extra energy and positivity today to make it to the border in double time! As for us, we took our time, soaking up the last few kilometres of a country which was certainly a challenge in so many tough and wonderful ways. It was fitting that our last moments in Ethiopia were spent drinking coffee at a border hotel and chatting with a wonderfully intelligent young man, who took such a keen interest in us and our journey. 

Daniel was his name and his grasp of the English language was superb because as he told us, he spent many an hour reading English novels and cross-checking them with a big dictionary when he stumbled across words he didn’t understand. His warmness, friendship, and explanation of the uneducated kids was the perfect way to bid Ethiopia farewell. 

Kenya – where we will encounter the toughest ‘roads’ imaginable from tomorrow. Mentally and physically we’re up for the challenge, however there is some trepidation lurking in the wings as we’ve been forewarned that the strongest rider 2 years ago – Kenya was skipped last year due to the political violence – averaged only 12km/h on one of the 90km stages. So, in preparation for the tough day’s ahead, we’re taking extra special care of the bikes and bums which are a bit tender from the past few days. In case you didn‘t know, extra special treatment of the buttocks entails layering on Bepathenen or Fissan paste (normally used for a baby’s nappy rash) each and every night, first thing in the morning, and even during the day while riding!

25 February, Day 42

80km Moyale to Sololo

Highlight: Braaied steak – great big pieces!

Wow, what a 24hrs it’s been. Soon after writing yesterdays blog we were able to get our phone to work (+61403971780 in case you wanted to call or sms) and phoned home. Chatting to friends and family was like food for the soul and it meant the world to us after nearly a month of little to none voice contact. 

Today’s ride was quite easily the ride of the tour! The dirt road was very poor but extremely enjoyable to cycle on – finally our mountain bikes are paying off. There were some ruts, soft sand and lots of corrugations, but the surface remained intact and meant for fun riding as you needed to choose a good line and always stay on the ball. 

The scenery finally looked African with thickish bush and we even saw some game, vulturin guinea fowl, baboons, dik-dik’s and many more. For the first time since before Khartoum we got a tailwind, which meant that the day’s ride flew by, in the end we got to camp at round 11am, arriving even before the trucks. As a result we passed the time outside a local shop drinking warm cokes and smoky tea. Dinner was a massive piece of beef steak with pasta salad – it was simply out of this world and topped off with a sunset not to be forgotten. Kenya… I think I’m going to like this place!

Today we got off lightly though, the road could well have been in worse condition and the wind played a massive role in speeding up the day’s riding, but tomorrow is meant to be a different kettle of fish. Tomorrow we hit the lava rocks… it’s said to be seriously tough, hot and no shade at all… one revolution at a time and we’ll make it.

26 February, Day 43

80km Sololo to Lava Rock Camp

Highlight: Cracked ribs and nothing else

I remember the rushing sound of air and then the dull thump of the boulder as it slammed into my back. Next I remember lying on my side, not being able to breathe, and people scurrying about me, shouting “don’t move!”. It had been a tough day’s ride – so bad were the roads that a few of us had actually beaten the one support truck to the dreaded Lava Rock camp – a desolate wasteland with volcanic rocks and boulders all over the place, and no trees for shade at all in the searing heat. To help with the respite from the heat, a tarpaulin for shade had been erected from the side of the one run-about vehicle, and to secure the tarpaulin to the ground, the tarpaulin had been tied and anchored to a large volcanic boulder. 

As we all sat huddled under the tarpaulin, swapping war-stories about the day’s terrible road conditions, a dust-devil came from nowhere and whipped the tarpaulin from our heads. As the tarpaulin flew, so did it’s heavy anchor, and I just happened to be in it’s path!

It’s hard to describe the force at which it hit me, but needless to say I cried out in pain while I still had some air in my lungs. As I came around, I heard Alex the paramedic asking me where it hurt. I remember wiggling my toes before I motioned that it had hit me on my upper back, luckily on the right hand side and not dead centre on my spine. Slowly but surely I began to move and sit up. My lungs were checked and given the all clear. I was as white as a sheet and faint from the shock of it all, but considering what could have been had I or someone else been sitting at a different angle or level, I was incredibly lucky to get away with just cracked ribs. 

As the day wore on and the painkillers kicked in, I began to feel a bit better. My right side was incredibly sore and breathing deeply was a no-go due to the pain, but I was just thankful it hadn’t been someone’s head in the way of the flying boulder. 

As I lay resting up in the truck, Bruce sorted the tents out among the lava rocks as dark clouds built in the distance – the day wasn’t over yet and we were in for a treat – our very first storm. The rain was a mixed blessing. It washed away the thick, hanging heat of the lava rock dessert as well as the dirt and grime from our bodies as took the opportunity to ‘shower’ in the rain. No sooner were we clean, that we realised the ferocious storm was turning our campsite into a mud-bath. The short-lived joy of being clean and cool was quickly replaced panic mode of securing tents, digging trenches and trying as best we could to keep our bags dry. There was a brief respite as dinner was served, but then it came down again. 

Bruce ducked to his tent to eat while I simply stood in the rain shovelling damp food into my mouth. By this stage of the evening my whole right side was in agony and I simply did not have the energy to move anywhere. By 6.30pm the rain still hadn’t let up and both of us were in our tents, although Bruce’s resembled more of a dam than a tent. I climbed into my rain gear, popped more painkillers and was out like a light. It had been one helluva day!

27 February, Day 44 

86km Lava Rock Camp to Marsabit

Highlight: Just finishing with a rest day tomorrow

What a day! After last night’s torrential downpour we emerged from our soaked tents and waded through the mud for breakfast. There simply was no way to clean the thick clay mud off anything, as a result we simply packed away our tents mud and all, and got on our bikes. Tim was sore from yesterday’s boulder incident, but was still up for the day’s riding, mainly because he knew it would be as painful riding in the trucks as it would on his bike. We’d been told that today was tough and they didn’t lie. 

It’s hard to decide which was tougher, the smallish stones, the soft sand, the severe corrugations, deep gullies or the jagged rocks that seem to stop you dead in you tracks – all of these road surfaces were seriously difficult to negotiate and encountered often in long stretches, but for me the toughest part of the day was the strong cross/head wind which either blew you across the road or brought you to a grinding halt. Finally our bikes shone. The front forks were worth their weight in gold and the thick nobbly tyres outstanding. The two of us went well in the race, so well in fact that I ended up with our first stage win and Tim, despite said boulder incident and cracked ribs came in 3rd. 

I think it’s a telling stat that after the toughest rest day to rest day stretch on what could quite easily be one of the toughest days on Tour the two of us prevailed leaving the other racers in our wake (the 2nd place rider was a sectional rider hence doesn’t have 4500km on his legs so we discount him). It was an emphatic victory even to the sectional rider. 

The path into camp included a steady climb up to the top of a volcanic crater. In the short 86km from our desolate desert lava rock home this morning, we’ve ended up in a lush forest environment with grass and wildlife. The view into the crater was fantastic though not admired with full justice due to the racing and endless need to look at the path in front due to the difficult conditions.

Camp is set between large trees with lawn. We immediately set out our tents wide open without fly sheets in an attempt to dry them after last nights rain. Also drying thermo-rests and various items of clothing. We then proceeded to our bucket shower – simply a bucket of water used to clean yourself. Suddenly the rain arrived before we’d completely setup our tents with fly sheets or removed the items from the line… hence everything is still wet… hopefully tomorrow the sun shines brightly.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Tim and Bruce are cycling from Cairo To Cape Town for charity, their website is Cycle2Learn.org and they are doing it to build 2 classrooms for a rural school in the Eastern Cape. They have currently raised R85,000 out of their target of R180,000. They started on the 10th January 2009.

 15 February, Day 33

Rest day in Addis Ababa

We had no idea what to expect out of Addis Ababa, but have been pleasantly surprised. It seems backward to me, as in all my travels I’ve found the people in the rural areas to be the nicest and those in the cities to be hardened, less open and less friendly. However, the opposite seems true for Addis, a friendly city set within a valley with steep slopes, lots of trees and wide, clean streets. Walking around town is the first time in weeks that we’ve been able to walk amongst locals and not feel like a celebrities hounded by the locals asking for money, food and my new favourite – pens. 

People here are relaxed, friendly and open. We’ve just returned from a shopping/lunch excursion through downtown. Our shopping list was comprehensive and included our usual: bog roll, chocolate chip cookies, mocha cookies, hot chocolate, peanuts and of course snickers (two each) – at least we’re eating a well rounded diet on our rest day! 

We went from café to café sampling the amazing coffees and cakes they have here. The day got even better as we found doughnuts, ice cream, Super 14 Rugby Highlights, and of course our very favourite – the layered fruit juices! Aside from trying to explore our rest stops as much as possible, our rest days are also quite intensive in terms of laundry, continual bike maintenance, and our email updates back to you all – which can sometimes be quite a trying experience with the dismal connection speeds we’ve come across in some towns! 

16 February, Day 34

108km Addis Ababa to Bush Camp

Another 108km of rolling, beautiful Ethiopian hills in the legs, and we’re feeling strong! However, about 12 riders and staff members, are not in great shape, having succumbed to the fever-diarrhea bug which has raised its ugly head again. It’s one thing feeling completely awful with all the creature comforts of home, it’s an entirely different story when you’re trying to ride through Africa. 

Some have been hit so badly that riding wasn’t even an option today, and they simply had to ride in the support trucks, others, who were slightly stronger, stuck it out on the bike to maintain their EFI (Every Fucking Inch) status. Sickness aside, life on the Tour is magical. I’ve seen countless sunrises as I roll my tent up in the morning. I’ve met, ate and drank with the friendliest people who had no reason to be friendly to me whatsoever. 

I’ve hit 72km/h and I’ve grinded in granny gear at 5km/h. I’ve smiled at complete strangers and they’ve smiled back, and I’ve seen the sun set each and every day. These are the things that wash away the grime, sweat, stink, pain and sickness that I’ve also experienced, and which I will no doubt experience again before we finish in Cape Town on the 9th of May. 

17 February, Day 34

128km Bush Camp 1 to Bush Camp 2

Today started somewhat controversially… As a bit of back ground, Tim and I never came here to race down Africa, we signed up for the race solely on the grounds that you can always pull out later so you might as well start racing if there was even a remote chance of you being competitive. Many people have pulled out since Cairo, half at least. Our attitude has been that we’re timed participants not racers, we’re here to see and experience Africa not stare at someone’s rear wheel as you push yourself beyond your comfort zone. 

So far our strategy has worked well and we haven’t succumbed to the tempt of pulling out of the race. To me there’s no rule that says you have to win or even be competitive in order to be a racer, just someone that enjoys the competitive spirit of the event. We’ve had our good days with a number of 3rd places, but they’ve been entirely dependent on the day’s conditions and health of the other racers.

Today’s race was from camp to lunch and due to start as always at 7:30, slightly later than we prefer to leave on non race days as we like to ride in the cooler weather. One person had a flat before the race start, the start was delayed a little under 15 minutes then eventually started without the rider with the flat and his girl friend (she had been helping with the tyre change). 

At camp the two were a little upset that the race was started without them, they felt hard done by and hadn’t raced hard as they felt that the situation was unfair – it’s far easier to ride as a group in a Peloton as you can get pulled along by the front riders, who rotate about every 5 minutes. I write this solely as we’ve never mentioned the race apart from the occasional result. 

The issue with the two racers with the flat tyre hasn’t been resolved yet – another meeting is required tomorrow morning. I find it a little amusing how seriously people are taking the race and fascinating watching the group dynamics as allegiances are forged, arguments had, and peoples’ attitudes change all while we’re meant to be here enjoying ourselves in Africa.

A short word on the day’s ride, it was a tough day with lots of climbs mostly after lunch though most happily the 138km days distance was in fact shorter (only 128km) due to the rider, whose GPS data is used, taking a few excursions on the day last year to find a crater lake. Both Tim and I are in high spirits though we’ve both got a scratchy throat, tomorrow is meant to be a true diamond in the rough – an easier day as we’re starting to descend down to Kenya… whooooooo hoooooo!

18 February, Day 35

118km Bush Camp 2 to Bush Camp 3

First half of the day was as easy as pie, thanks to a wicked downhill out of the mountains. The second half of the day, however, was a little more trying, thanks to a persistent headwind and one monster of a climb which was lined with irritating kids. At the top of the monster we found the busy town of Sodo, and pulled into a local café for a much-needed Coke, a local donut and or course, a Macchiato coffee. 

From Sodo the road literally fell apart and we had 30km of dodging axel-breaking potholes – it was a fantastic bit of biking which suited our Scott hardtails beautifully! Once in camp we went through the usual motions of rehydrating, tent set-up, bike cleaning, stretching and of course the favourite part of the day, inhaling dinner! As we ate, the clouds steadily built around us and looked rather ominous for sometime, and as I write this from the comfort of my tent, the first drops of rain have begun to fall…. With a bit of luck, our Cape Union Mart tents will do all the things they are supposed to do and keep the rain at bay… if not, tonight could be an interesting one….

19 February, Day 36

108km Bush Camp 3 to Arba Minch

Another race day (camp to lunch), and we continued on the extremely poor road going downhill – it was awesome. We hit a snag, however, at about 5km out of camp as Tim realised he’d forgotten his Camel Back. He decided to return back to camp whilst I continued on slowly (which was no problem given that I was still feeling ill). The road was poor all the way to lunch and the kids were on top form. The best word to describe the effect we have on the kids as we pass by is “hysteria“. 

The first few riders through cause the hysteria, the kids are so excited, sprinting to the road shouting, screaming, and generally just going insane. By the time the last few riders come past, the kids have been setup at the road for a while and are starting to get frustrated – I assume due to the lack of attention from tired riders or the lack of a hand-out. As a result, and as the day progresses, the hysteria quickly turns to madness. 

To get your attention/stand out from the crowd they resort to things like throwing stones, trying to shove sticks into your spokes, pulling silly faces, stupid comments, slapping (or just trying to touch you), trying to open your Camel Back or saddle bag, and even using hand-catties to catapult stones into you! Today’s kids were made worse for us as we were amongst the last few riders for the day and by now they were seriously aggressive – which gets a little worrying when the machetes start making an appearance with threatening glares in tow! 

Certainly the kids have a negative effect on your day, but we always try to keep in mind they are only children and acting the only way they know. Apart from the kids the day went okay, the road improved closer to Arba Minch and we were able to get into camp early and find a shady camp spot, though riddled with thorns… Showers were had, it had been a solid 4 days since our last access to any sort of excess water, and the shower can only be described as heavenly. Tyres were then changed in preparation for the next few week’s of riding – described as the toughest on tour… by far… bugger!

Popularity: 10% [?]

Tim and Bruce are cycling for charity in the Tour ‘d Afrique from Cairo to Cape Town, 12 000km’s in 120 days.  The money is all going towards the building of 2 classrooms for a rural school in the Eastern Cape. So far they have raised R84,000 and their target is R180,000 so please go donate on their website www.cycle2learn.org

10 February, Day 29

165km Bahir Dar to Bush Camp

What a day!  Today was the day of the tour for me.  It started poorly, I woke up feeling average despite the 2nd consecutive day of 11 hours of sleep and antibiotics.  Once on the bike I felt worse, there wasn’t one thing in particular that was sore. My tummy was fine, I didn’t have diarrhoea and I wasn’t nauseas – I just felt lousy and couldn’t keep up with Tim.  After 20km I was struggling, and then, as if a switch was flipped, I started feeling better and made it to lunch without too many concerns.  I also had an appetite for a change and ate plenty.  The race was from lunch (70km) to the refresh stop (125km).  I rode alone and in my own world cruising happily with an incident free morning.  As I approached the town at 120km (can’t remember it’s name – sorry), I was climbing a steep hill and school had just come out… there were hundreds of kids lining the road and by the time I had got there everyone of them had a stone… with little to do I simply put my head down and grinded away taking the hits – mostly small stones not thrown too hard. 

Bruce taking a quick break...

Next a seemingly local rider came up behind me and passed me up the hill – a little embarrassing given he was in long pants with a bike that creaked loudly with each crank and a wheel that wasn’t completely round.  I quickly realised that the kids calmed down considerably with him nearby, so I stuck to his wheel like flies to dung.  After a number of kilometres and many screaming kids/locals, I eventually decided to unleash my frustration on my knight in shining armour by asking why these #$%&^&* kids kept harassing me and pelting me with stones – I hadn’t done anything to upset them!  I expected the rider to not understand me at all so when he replied ‘stick close to me and you be fine’ I was a little shocked to say the least…  The two of us rode on together for some time chatting.  

My knight’s name was John (Johen in Amharic) and he was from Dongola (my favourite town in Sudan), he moved to Ethiopia a number of years ago to seek a better future for himself, something I found very surprising.  John had studied history and teaching in both Gondar and Barhir Dar – our previous two rest day towns, and John was one switched on cookie.  I asked him if I could buy him a coffee and he said he knew a place.  We pulled over and shared two coffees, taking in the town and watching the occasional harassed TDA rider pass by.  The clouds were looking ominous so I asked John if it was going to rain – he assured me it wouldn’t.  After coffee, John asked me if I’d like some ‘makoni’ – not entirely sure what this was and given that my stomach was feeling better and ready for another assault from Ethiopian food, I agreed, thinking you got to give everything a go.  We headed deep into town to John’s place – it was a modest single room house but clearly his pride and joy.  By now I had realised that John was cut from a different cloth to everyone else I’d met in Ethiopia, this guy was an entrepreneur feeding himself with his local produce and selling the extra at the market, as well as filling in at the school when a teacher was sick and he had his own regular extra curricular class he taught and was in the process of publishing his very own English/Ahmeric phrase book/dictionary for grades 4 to 12.  

I spent a while paging through John’s photo album, filled with pics of his family, graduations and his girl friend.  John set about preparing the ‘makoni’ (which I realised by now was actually macaroni), he boiled the pasta, fried the onions, garlic, peppers (all from his garden) and served up a treat.  Now it started to rain, John felt like a bit of an idiot after assuring me it wouldn’t, and he suggested we have one of those layered fruit drinks I like so much.  Back on the bike in the rain, we headed to the juice stand – no juice except avocado… so we had a beer glass full of avo juice with a strawberry squeeze sauce – it was great!  

John and his family with Fatima

Still raining, John asked me if I wanted to meet his girlfriend, her house was round the corner.  I was a little hesitant as the macaroni had taken a while to make, serve and eat and with the juice I was starting to run a little late.  John assured me that his girl friend’s friend was worth the trip and that I should definitely come meet her – I quickly agreedJ  Mista’s place was also a single room house, inside was a bed and a set of small Ethiopian coffee cups and small portable charcoal fire for the kettle.  I met Fatima – soon to be my wife I was told – and she was stunning, so I wasn’t backing away from the idea in too much of a hurry.  

At a TDA rider meeting we’d been told that the traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony is quite long… I can now vouch for this.  First Mista had to get the charcoal, light it, wait for the coals to form by fanning the fire, then fill the pot, boil the water, serve the coffee and sugar into the many cups, and serve.  This is repeated a further 2 more times – apparently the Ethiopians have three coffees in one of these sittings.  The coffee, though from a sachet, was lovely and I had a fantastic time chatting with John, Mista, Mista’s sister, Mista’s land lord, some random and Fatima.  Not sure Fatima was keen on the idea of our pending  marriage and I was still out with the jury, but John and Mista were convinced they’d found the perfect match!  

After coffee I told John I seriously needed to leave, the girls were sad.  Digits/email addressed and of course the cycle2learn website address was exchanged (Fatima if you’re reading this hiJ), hugs given and I said goodbye to the girls.  John cycled with me out of the town and on for a fair amount further ensuring there were no more little brats sporting freshly picked up stones.  We said goodbye, shook hands and made our separate ways…  I looked at the time, past 5 and I still had 35kms left… thoughts of not making it to camp in daylight filtered through my head, so I pulled finger and rode like the wind.  To my seemingly endless luck of the day, it turned out the last 35km were pretty much all downhill.  I passed a frantic TDA van coming towards me with the medic, Alex, Miles the chef and oracle of the TDA, and Tim – all very concerned for me.  I felt terrible, I was due in camp at least three hours before and no one knew where I was.  I said I was fine and cycled the rest of the way, as I entered camp I received a loud applause and told my story to everyone at dinner. The story went down and a treat, and guess what…. Unbelievably it was none other than macaroni for dinner!

11 February, Day 30

118km Bush Camp to Forest Camp

Hell’s bells there are lots of people in the country. Wherever we are, they  just seem to appear from nowhere to watch the circus roll-on through. There are hardly any passenger cars at all on the roads, just people trekking from village to village with donkeys, cattle, goats and chickens. Needless to say, we cause quite a stir in our cycling kit as we whiz through. But if you’re wise – like we naturally are – you leave early in the morning and aim to be amongst the first riders to be seen for the day, this ensures you are just gawked at, rather than stoned and harassed for money, which is what happens if you’re at the back of the pack. 

Aside from the teeming population here, we can also confidently confirm that Ethiopia has mountains, and lots of them. Today we gained about 1800m in elevation, descending 1320m, and we’re camping tonight in a pine plantation at an altitude of 2500m above sea level – the high altitude alone caught us sucking on a bit of gas this morning, I mean we’re beach bums back home! 

Like yesterday, today was a beautiful but challenging ride with some big climbs, with the legs now just a little tired and right on time for tomorrow’s Blue Nile Gorge challenge – the nasty bit being a 22km climb with an elevation gain of 1600m – let’s just hope we’re ahead of the pack and the stone-throwing masses. 

12 February, Day 30

89km Forest Camp to CPAR Camp – Blue Nile Gorge Day

(CPAR – Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief) 

A little over 20kph on the rolling hills in the morning, 45kph plus down the gorge and about 10kph up

Because today was such an epic day – we’ve both described it from our own personal view points – ENJOY!

Bruce’s account:

Blue Nile Gorge… KLAPPED IT!  What a great day.  I’ve been dreading this day for sometime now, camp site rumours of a 1.5km ascent over some 20km spread like wild fire and when the worst was confirmed true I experienced shear panic.  South Western Australia (where I did all my pre-tour training) just about has it all – beautiful beaches, warm weather, vineyards, breweries, etc just about all except hills.  In saying that hills may not of helped cause today I climbed a mountain.

Going down the gorge was scary due to the steep descent and of course, given this is Ethiopia, countless people on the narrow steep roads with screaming kids and the occasional dog chasing our rear tyres.  I had a great time climbing, I paced myself beautifully sitting in granny gear ticking along checking out the breath taking view.  Switch back after  switch back we climbed.  Towards the top I read messages of encouragement from the TDA staff written in chalk on the road surface which kept me going.  With a few hundred meters to go, but still a steep climb, I saw Erin the medic – she shouted support and gave me a quick push up the last switch back – an awesome moment.  I cross the line feeling great and most importantly like I could do it again if I needed to.  It took a while but it’s finally dawned on me that this is a very, very long journey and the name of the game is pacing yourself…  At camp we had a really treat – a game of table tennis!  Also two of the best cups of coffee and finally a shower.  Ending the day with a braai of sheep shoulder blades, knuckles, necks and ribs and one of our last hot chocolate mixes (we treated ourselves on a big day – thanks once again Collin and VivJ).  Tomorrow is another big day with a 500m climb in 10km, we reach the highest point on tour, a little over 3100m before descending back below 2700m… looking forward to it!

Tim’s account:

Below and to my left is the Blue Nile, and just up ahead is another steep 180-degree switchback. As I look down at my tanned chicken legs spinning, sweat falls off my face and cools  my knees. 

The happiest I am on a bike is directly proportional to the size of the mountain I’m climbing. The bigger the climb, the broader the smile, and today was a perfect ride! A fun and challenging 18km descent into the gorge, followed by a 22km time trial climb out of it. Pacing is the key for a climb like this, and my goal was to get to the top and NOT be tired. Mission accomplished! I  had so much energy left at the top that I even put in a sprint finish just for fun for the timekeepers. It was a tremendous feeling for all who rode the day. Everyone had a different story to tell, everyone went at a different pace, and everyone shared the euphoric feeling at the top of having climbed a beautiful bit of mountainside. Afterwards an ice-cold Pepsi was had at the local village, followed by amazing coffees, and even a braai for dinner. Good times!

13 February, Day 31

90 CPAR Camp to CPAR Camp

(CPAR – Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief)

We climbed to 3200 metres above sea level today, the highest point of the Tour, and yes, the lungs were most certainly burning for most of the day! With lungs longing for air, we just took it easy and rolled along pretty leisurely for most of the day, even stopping in at a local village for a seriously strong cup of coffee! It’s been great staying in the CPAR camps as they afford you a little bit of space from all the inquisitive eyes. The added benefit of today’s CPAR location is that it is just around the corner from a ‘hotel’ which is perched on the edge of a beautiful ravine. Needless to say we hit the place up for a beer, sat right by the edge, and just enjoyed the serenity of the view and the many birds soaring on the thermals. 

14 February, Day 32

105km CPAR Camp to Addis Ababa

Rolling hills for most of the day then a fast convoy down the hill into Addis

Tim and Bruce with their 'beards'

I had an awesome birthday today!  I’m not a cycling purest, I chose to come along on TDA because I wanted to see Africa, have unique experiences and meet some interesting people, but yesterday I understood why some people, the cycling purists, love nothing other than to cycle.  It was a great morning’s ride through the rolling hills with spectacular scenery and a festive mood for the rest day ahead.  We made our final climb then had to wait for the all the other cyclists to arrive for the convoy into Addis.  There were a few shops selling soft drinks and cookies, but despite asking everywhere there was no coffee available for sale.  Next minute one of the ladies Tim had been speaking to motioned us into her shop for coffee.  We sat there for well over an hour enjoying the authentic Ethiopian coffee ceremony – the lady roasted the beans, crushed them in a mortar, and then brewed the coffee with incense burning – all in her tiny little stall on the side of the road.  It was simply the best coffee I’ve had and a fantastic experience.  After arriving in camp and setting up tents we headed out for birthday drinks. Amongst the many beers a samoosa, doughnut, pizza and even a piece of cake was had!  The rest of the evening was spent bar-hopping playing drinking games and ending at a local night club dancing the night away.  What a great way to bring in your 27th birthday.

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